11.06.2005

鴨鵝莫辨:鏞記燒鵝(香港)

我吃故我在

很多年前第一次造訪香港,朋友說想吃馳名深井燒鵝,兩人於是走進大街上一家名為「陳記深井燒鵝」的小館。

問侍者可有燒鵝?店裡唯一會說點"普通話"說的侍者說:「沒有,只有鴨,但鴨就是鵝啊。」

當下心中充滿了大大小小的問號:這這這,鴨怎麼會是鵝?難道廣東話裡說的鵝其實是鴨?或者這是另類的港式邏輯?

事後和另一個朋友提起這事。他大笑:「鴨歸鴨,鵝歸鵝。你們倆被唬了啦,那服務生根本是欺負你們是不會講廣東話的外地人。」

我說不會吧,我在英國的日子裡,倫敦中國城小館裡講廣東話的侍者對我還不錯也。吃盤不到五英鎊的三寶飯,至少我也有例湯和熱茶,同桌的日本人或鬼佬(香港人戲稱洋人為鬼佬)可沒這等待遇。

「呵呵,那妳就不懂了。我們廣東人可分的很清楚,對華人自然好過日本人和鬼佬,但對講廣東話的可就更好了。」朋友如是說。

這朋友其實是"香港人",十歲時舉家移民台灣。令他憤憤不平的是他只比下面一個妹妹大了兩歲,然而即使他移居台灣的歲月早已是他在香港短暫童年的好幾倍,往往一開口,人們就會立刻問他是否為香港僑生,而妹妹卻從無這問題。

這回去香港,行前看了蔡珠兒最新作品紅燜廚娘打雜妹嚷著要吃燒鵝。一日中午在港島中環會合的大夥正商量著中午要吃什麼,香港友人星雲福至心靈的說:「鏞記燒鵝啊,就在離這不遠處。」一群貪吃鬼聞言發出一陣歡呼,大夥齊步前進這被香港美食家蔡瀾大力推薦的燒鵝名店。

到了店門,沒訂位的我們被要求到二樓等候是意料中的事,但到二樓等卻是絕佳妙點。如此一來等候的人就不會擋到進進出出的人馬,才能快快送走酒足飯飽的食客,這樣等在後面貪吃的食客如我們才能快快入座啊^^

等候的同時,上午去了趟南Y島的打雜妹已經累到直接在樓梯上坐了下來。在香港本島走了也算不少路的我跟著有樣隨樣,順手拿出蔡瀾的「樂得未能食素*」一書研究起待會要點什麼好料。

招牌燒鵝當然是一定要的。乖乖,一隻要好幾百元港幣。即使我們點的一碟,也要近百元之譜。這樣一想,就更期待了。

特製皮蛋酸薑首先上場的開胃小菜是特製皮蛋酸薑,就是皮蛋佐醃漬過的嫩薑。港人嗜食皮蛋,被蔡瀾評為「沒有人做得保持那麼好的水準」的鏞記皮蛋,果然色澤、口感都沒教人失望,爽口可喜!

隨後是今天的要角:燒鵝。那燒鵝一入口,所有的期待在瞬間全化為值得與滿心歡喜。皮薄脆而香酥,肉質香而不乾澀,皮和肉的中間還夾了一層肥美黃油…頓時全場鴉雀無聲。美味當前,吃都來不及了,當然沒空多扯。

鵝油拌麵鵝油拌麵倒是出乎意表的美味。

在台灣,我始終嚐不出廣東蛋麵的滋味,不論是做成乾麵的撈麵,或大受好評的廣東炒麵。不只如橡皮般的口感令人生厭,入口的油垢味更令我反胃。

到澳門第一晚在路邊不知的茶餐廳嚐到的雲吞撈麵已一改我對此味的刻板印象。總算了解為何港人嗜食此味:麵軟,更無那油垢味,原來好吃的撈麵當如是啊。

而鏞記的鵝油拌麵更是極品。就僅只以鵝油拌以煮過瀝乾的細蛋麵,上頭擱些蔥花,簡簡單單的調味,入口卻是滿滿鵝油的清香…就是好吃!

金鑲豆腐金鑲豆腐更是不容易。所謂不容是是因為阿餅是不太喜歡吃豆腐的人(老實說好了,我最討厭豆腐!)。喜好本來就是最主觀的,尤其是美食。但鏞記的金鑲豆腐能讓我說好吃…怎麼辦到的?炸的外酥內嫩不稀奇,台式炸豆腐也辦的到。稀奇的是台式炸豆腐靠蒜泥醬油膏甚至甜辣醬等沾醬來提味;而鏞記的金鑲豆腐,我幾乎僅只嚐得的到鹽的滋味…但那炸得色呈淡鵝黃色(注意:不是金黃色,也不是很多餐廳的淡棕色)的金鑲豆腐已經有足夠的滋味,而且沒有豆腐的腥味,更沒有冰箱味!(哎,台灣有些餐廳的豆腐真的有啊。而且我指的還不是尋常的泡沬紅茶店呢。)

臘腸捲我們還點了一些港式飲茶的點心,中規中矩。印象最深的是臘腸捲:臘腸捲在類似叉燒包的麵皮裡,外皮略乾澀,但臘腸本身的滋味真是濃郁的教人難忘。

三兩下一桌美食已被我們一掃而空。

於是我提起當年的「鴨即是鵝,鵝就是鴨」的陳年往事。朋友六月說那是因為鵝難尋,所以有些餐廳是會以鴨代替鵝。

原來如此!這麼一想,當年那位侍者反而是誠實待客了。如果他拿燒鴨來唬我說是燒鵝,說不定也能朦騙過關。即使嚐出來了,不會廣東話的我吵架又吵不過人,又能如何?

跨國友人在香港聚首嚐到鏞記燒鵝的一桌美味,自是難能可貴。順便一解懸浮心中多年的疑惑,倒是始料未及。

香港友人六月常被我戲稱為"假香港人",因為有些時候我們發現她對香港的一些事物並不是那麼的熟悉。可惜此生和文中稍早提及的另一位"香港朋友"大概是無緣再碰面了,不然我真想告訴他:

你對「鴨即是鵝,鵝即是鴨」的了解可比不上六月。這麼一想,你還是要歸在台灣人這邊,不能算是真正的香港人啦。

而我好奇卻又無從得知的是:這樣說是否就能一解這位朋友對自己一直被視為香港僑生的遺憾呢?


SunnyPie
11.5.2005


備註:台灣只出版了蔡瀾的未能食素,文中提及的「樂得未能食素」是香港壹出版所出。感謝家有另一枚愛吃人士:餅弟。


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84 個意見:

11/06/2005 6:38 下午 , Anonymous 嘉芙 提到...

哇~~阿餅原來去了鏞記。
我這個挑嘴的人,只願意吃鏞記的皮蛋和叉燒,當然還有美味的燒鵝,幸好以前公司靠近那裡,常找藉口去那裡午餐。

看了這些圖片,好想吃好想吃
嗚~~上次回去竟然沒有去鏞記

 
11/06/2005 10:29 下午 , Anonymous singwan 提到...

阿餅

剛看了蔡珠兒的文章
吃了這麼多年的烤鴨燒鵝
到現在才搞清楚燒和烤的分別:p

蔡珠兒的文章真的太好看
一篇看一次真不夠

 
11/07/2005 9:33 上午 , Anonymous 小樹 提到...

今年七月初我也去了一趟香港,跟一個以前常往香港做商務出差的友人同往,我這個朋友,任職美商跨國際公司的人事副總,二年前,毅然放棄高薪高職,離開職場重新思考自己的未來方向。那次去,一切行程都是他打點的,朋友是個生活家,理所當然吃好住好,連續三天的精饌美食,讓我對於吃在香港印象深刻。

抵港第一天就去了鏞記,如阿餅所說,鏞記的燒鵝真是美味,皮酥肉潤,味香全港,記得鏞記的那一餐我們點得是燒鵝雙拼,拼叉燒,那叉燒也是甜美香溢,一盤雙拼,配上芳濃的醬汁,腦海裡竟然深深以為,這莫不是射鵰裡黃蓉的料理手藝直追了去。

港麵之好吃我也深以為然,鏞記拌麵麵麵俱到地Q香可口,至於開胃的鏞記皮蛋我譽為內涵豐富,皮蛋與酸薑各擅其勝,我愛吃薑,所以一定要特別點出那酸薑難能可貴的酸到甜味盡出,因為沒料到那麼好吃,所以特別難忘。我吃麵,朋友吃粥,豬肝粥,我是從小不敢吃豬肝的人,只好眼睜睜看著一碗香稠粉嫩的豬肝粥朋友一人享用。

那晚的菜色我們吃很多,除了以上,最奢侈地是還點了一盤烤乳豬,一客玉帶海皇羹。基於小小的愛生之心,我不好形容這道菜的極品特色,我只能說,跟燒鵝的甜滿香溢不同的,烤乳豬更是將一切美味都鎖在皮肉之間了。這輩子我想就吃那麼一次烤乳豬也就夠了。

吃香喝羹大概就是港饌的特色了,我喝得那碗玉帶海皇羹裡將多色海鮮盡溶一鍋,熬煮的火候恰到好處,吃得出羹美,也吃得到干貝等蝦類魚類的鮮,最難得的是不糊不膩,清鮮共濃美於一羹色間,一匙一羹,齒頰留香不在話下了。

講了這許多,卻不過是我在香港吃得小小一餐,當然那也是香港三天我最回味無窮的一餐了。

 
11/08/2005 10:48 下午 , Blogger JP 提到...

回台灣沒多久JP爸就問我想吃什麼
我想了一下回答:[鵝肉]
JP爸還很認真的再問一次我想不想吃好一點的
(像義大利料理啊? *倒*)
不過我還是堅持要到那間鵝肉攤吃
在台灣鵝肉雖然稀鬆平常
不過在歐洲算是高級料理了 會煮的人不多
也不容易買到鵝肉
所以有機會當然要大吃鵝肉一頓

雖然只是簡單的[白斬鵝]
不過真的好吃
肉甜美皮不油膩
還有他們的鵝血糕真的是讚啊

我沒吃過燒鵝 但看到妳的形容
恨不得馬上飛到香港試吃看看 ~"~

 
11/09/2005 10:24 下午 , Blogger SunnyPie(阿餅) 提到...

To 嘉芙

妳會錯過鏞記是因為香港好吃的東東太多了吧
沒關係,下回還有機會
總要留一些給下回
下回才會更令人期待嘛

To 星雲

沒錯沒錯
蔡珠兒的文章只能用太~~~~~~~好看了來形容
每一篇都看得令我菀爾不已再三回味

有個東東倒是令我有點納悶
在第70頁裡說「大白菜...就是台灣的包心菜...」
我猜"大白菜"或"包心菜"指的是"高麗菜"
我以為中國大陸人管叫這味(包心菜/高麗菜)為"白菜",相對於"大白菜"和"小白菜"
但台灣人稱中國的"大白菜"為"白菜"
所以叫"包心菜/高麗菜"為"大白菜"可是港人的說法?
會不會越講越令你迷糊?

To 小樹

被妳這麼一說我又後悔了
那天怎麼沒點粥?!我是如此嗜粥的人啊(其實是因為當天早晨已吃了粥)
怎麼沒點叉燒?
怎麼沒點烤乳豬?
怎麼沒點任何海鮮?
......
啊太多遺憾了
不過就像我之前跟嘉芙說的
留待一些給下回
下回就會更令人期待了

To JP

有趣的是我從來沒想過鵝不好尋這回事也
台北有一間很有名的老店叫"鴨肉扁"賣得其實是鵝肉
離它不遠處是另一家知名的鵝肉專賣店:十字亭

鵝肉好吃!
如你所言最簡單的"白斬鵝"就是最美味了
這種白斬鵝最好沾米醬、薑絲和九層塔
風味和港式燒鵝完全不同
但一樣迷人!!!
突然想到上上回你回來時吃的烤鴨大餐
又是另一番風味
下回你回來或許我們該考慮去吃白斬鵝大餐
不過說真的
此味大概要往台灣中南部尋
才能找到真滋味
或者要來餅家
請餅娘弄給你吃啦^^

鵝血糕? 沒吃過...
但光聽&用想像的
口水就快滴滿地了啊

 
11/10/2005 6:22 下午 , Anonymous 阿餅 提到...

啊昨天留完那則白菜/大白菜/包心菜/高麗菜留言已經開始心虛
今天早上和餅娘一起吃早餐特地問一下
果然!!!
搞不清楚狀況五穀不分的是在下阿餅啊
原來包心菜不是高麗菜
就是台灣人說的白菜,中國大陸人說的大白菜啦
哈哈哈哈

 
11/12/2005 4:26 上午 , Anonymous CD 提到...

阿餅,
看到妳提鴨鵝,我在這沒吃過燒鵝,但是燒鴨吃不少,港式的燒鴨真的是做的很棒.但很有趣的是,回台灣去一些港式燒臘店買燒鴨,怎麼買都是味道不對,有些號稱是香港師傅做的,也是跟溫哥華一般港人做的味道不一樣.後來問,有師傅是說台灣的鴨養出比較不同所以味道不一樣,不知真的還假的....哈哈.
台灣的白菜有兩種,一種是較小顆較圓葉子層層包起,所以叫包心菜,另一種長的較長梗也較長些就叫大白菜或山東大白菜,還有一種,我在梨山有看過,我這是蠻長見的,梗更長,整顆長起來就是細細長長的,這叫長紹菜.但我較不喜歡這種的口感.

 
11/14/2005 7:01 下午 , Blogger SunnyPie(阿餅) 提到...

CD

台灣的鴨養出比較不同所以味道不一樣....我覺得很有可能喔。好玩的是,英國人也說他們的北京烤鴨比較好吃,純粹只因英國的鴨子比較肥....哈哈。

原來白菜還有這麼多學問,對我而言還真是小複雜呢。有些蔬菜的味道,我始終不是太喜歡,像是白菜、A菜、地瓜葉、黃/綠豆芽....越講覺得自己越偏食....還好還好,雖然不喜歡,但還是會吃,即便相交多年的朋友,都不太容易發現我不吃的東西其實挺多的。尤其和朋友一起聚餐時,朋友點這些菜,我一定說好啊好啊,想藉機讓自己吃到平常不會主動去吃的菜....算一個很努力不偏食的人吧。

還有我始終覺得要當個美食家,一定要兼容並蓄....講白一點就是能接受的越多才越有口福哇,這個不吃那個不吃就虧了!哈哈。所以很努力的想接受各種食物^^

 
5/17/2007 2:58 下午 , Anonymous Jennifer 提到...

我到鏞記吃燒鵝已有十年以上的資歷了, 每回去香港必去光臨, 百吃不膩! 就是好吃.
唯獨對那開胃菜的薑有意見, 染色太厲害了啦, 怎麼都沒人批評呢? 難怪甘老闆說生意太好, 沒時間改進. 因為都沒人指出嘛.
鏞記的各式炒麵都極好, 還有例湯更值得喝, 滋補又美味, 但是記住唷, 別吃那盤料, 會被笑什麼都不懂, 是外地(行)人.

 
3/11/2010 2:31 上午 , Anonymous 匿名 提到...

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